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EAT
Magazine
Summer
2007
by Wren Wertin
THE TEAM
For eight years, chef-owner
Thomas Salamunovich has
been shaping his concept of
Larkspur. The intuitive service,
seasonal New American fare
and high-energy room are the
product of his vision and his
staff's teamwork. In the kitchen
executive chef Mike Regrut,
pastry chef Allana Smith and
sous chefs Katie Routh and Luke
Venner have a synergy about
them that transcends any one
meal. On the plate, nothing feels
accidental. "We're focusing on
pure flavors," said Salamunovich.
"We keep trying to strip away
anything superfluous and get to
the essence of it."
LOCAVORE
It’s trendy to talk about local,
organic ingredients, but Larkspur
has taken it to an entirely
different level. Thanks to a longterm
relationship with a farmer in
Gypsum (they won't divulge her
name), they now have access to
a cold-weather greenhouse in the
winter and field-fresh produce in
the summer. And it gets better.
Chef Regrut drives to the farm
with his own containers, picks
out what he wants, and then
returns to the restaurant to cook
to his heart’s content. "Mike is
absolutely passionate about the
produce," said Salamunovich.
"He's the most ingredient-driven
chef I've worked with." Parting
with tradition, the Larkspur
menu is built around produce,
rather than proteins.
TASTING MENU
The menu changes so frequently
there's no need for a specials list,
but the tasting menu comes pretty
close. Comprised of five to seven
petite courses, it's an entire meal
orchestrated by the chefs. Though
the wine list is extensive and fun
to peruse, the recommended
pairings are a sure bet.
DO TRY
Larkspur's latest crab cake
incarnation is petite, and hovers
dead center in a bowl of sweet
Olathe corn puree. Embellished
with viney pea tendrils, it speaks
of summer abundance. The short
rib is served Wellington-style:
The tender morsel of meat falls
apart as soon as a fork looks at it,
but is held together by a savory
crust. The cheese list is always
extensive, and is usually served
with a sweet burst of summer
fruit. Chef Smith is honing
her gelato skills, practicing for
adventures to come. She offers at
least one nightly, and it's always
a beauty. M
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